| Gather your tools and stuff . I followed the directions engineered by Darrin Fink and posted on his web page, but I can no longer find where Darrin has his web page. You can follow my PDF conversion of Darrin's page "darrinsplugwire.pdf". He used different materials but the principle is the same. This way you only have to make up one end, the other comes factory made. Cut each wire to length adding a couple inches for each wire as you go along, starting with the longest stock and Accel wire first. This way you won't run short. I purchased an 8 wire kit just to be sure. You can see an original wire end before I disassembled it. |
Strip the outer insulation Per Darrin's instructions, 2" for the outer and 1/2" for the inner insulation. You may want to add a bit more - you can always trim it off. If it's too short you'll have to do it again, which is why I made the new wires about 3 or 4 inches longer, just in case!! It's best to cut a ring around the outer shield, then slit to the end from there to aid in peeling off the yellow layer to keep from messing up the fiberglass braiding. Separating the two cones is easiest with a utility razor knife. Place the knife on the point where the two cones come together and roll it back and forth while pressing down. Wear safety glasses, I had one cone snap loose and fly around. Also the knife I show has serrated blades prone to snapping off. One of those solid, traingular blade retractables would be preferred. The knife is also handy to pry loose the brass brad from the side. Keeps from cracking the cylindrical insulator, don't ask! |
This is where I added one thing to Darrin Fink's method, I used a piece of aluminum tape for sealing duct work ( not Duct tape! - the handyman's secret weapon!) A piece about 3/4 by 1 inch works fine. If your tape is thicker you may have to adjust the size smaller. I wrapped it around the inner cone and the yellow wire butting the cone tight against the yellow outer sleeve. See next photo for close up. |
| Aluminum sealing tape Wrapped around inner cone and outer wire insulation. At this point some heat from a heat gun really helps it stick to the inner cone and yellow insulation. Then on to the next step, sliding the outer cone down over this assembly. |
Outer cone pushed down over tape. Hold the assembly by the first cone to prevent it slipping off or tearing the aluminum tape. The tape is very fragile but once outer cone is in place it fits snugly. Unit now ready for the the 1 inch and the 1 1/2 inch heat shrink pieces to be added. Make sure you remember to put them and the cap screw on the wire first! Don't ask! If you forget, it's just a simple matter to pry the cones apart and use a new piece of aluminum tape. |
Last step is to spread the wire end around like flower petals with something pointy like a bigger nail. Then insert the brad with something like needle nose pliers, then tap it in the last little bit. The wire should protrude about 1/16 of an inch so you can spread it out. This is where a little extra wire at the beginning might help. You may want to cut a little more yellow outer insulation and inner fiberglass/silicone insulation to provide a bit more wire length at the start, then trim the sleeve and copper wire as needed at the final step. |
| Everything together and only five more to go. I think it initially took me an hour or so do all six. |
New wires as installed on distributor along with a whole mess of nice blue wire separators. |
Military Plug Wires. I plugged one into my distributor to see if they fit. They all measure 30 inches between connectors! They are made much better than the ones that came on my Mog!! Stainless steel braid, teflon center, spiral center wire, fiberglass inner braid, etc.. |
| Military Plug Wires here is the mil spec supply tag on these wires. |
Plug Wires come one to a bag with vinyl covers on the ends. |
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