Having built several projects from other's plans, I usually find it necessary to modify them in some minor way to suit me. Here's where my hints will be posted.
1. SSUG ShopSmith Users Group - No longer exists to get the plans for the under the ShopSmith Cabinet. SSusers is working on setting up a location to download files. I have a Word copy Mark V Storage.doc and a PDF format Mark V Storage.pdf of these plans. The Word Doc quality is better than the PDF but they're good enough to use as a guide. I had to narrow my cabinet by two inches to make it only 14 inches deep to keep from hitting the table supports when lowering the table. I also made it from 3/4" plywood for additional stiffness to eliminate the two braces underneath for additional clearance, no doors on the front and 1/4" pegboard on the rear. This has worked just fine.
Here are some comments forwarded to me by Larry Rubinow about the original cabinet:------
This plywood cabinet is a perfect mate for the Mark V. It makes good use of
the space underneath the machine, creating a surprising amount of storage
space for tools and accessories. Those easy-to-misplace items such as
arbors, molder knives, saw blades, and sanding discs can be stored
ready-to-use right where you can reach them. Even larger Mark V accessories
such as the jointer and belt sander can fit inside this cabinet.
By mounting the bandsaw and jigsaw on the ends of the Mark a couple of
accessories on the top of the cabinet, and the rest on the inside of it, all
the items in the Ultimate Shop Accessory Package, and the Mark V itself, can
be stored in 12 square feet. That's about the size of a walk-in closet!
Cut the plywood according to the cutting diagram with the help of another
person. Use a plywood or carbide-tipped saw blade and a wooden fence
extension for greater bearing surface and more control for straight cuts.
After all the pieces are cut, set up the dado package to cut all dadoes 1/2"
wide by 1/8" deep for glides and assembly. For accuracy cut and sand the two
contoured ends together. Then drill the mounting bolt holes in the ends and
the clamp bars. Drill for door knob screws as well.
Dry assemble the cabinet using bar clamps and check the fit of doors and
shelves. Mark for hinge mortises. Measure and cut the aluminum angle stock
to 15" lengths and drill screw holes in it.
Now disassemble the cabinet. Chisel the mortises for the hinges. Mount the
angle stock. Be sure to leave room for the doors to close. Reclamp the
cabinet parts together and fasten with screws only. Use no glue. Mount the
door knobs, hinges, and latches to the doors. The clips under the shelves
that prevent them from tipping and spilling should be mounted near each
shelfs back edge.
Mount the cabinet to the underside of the Mark V, fill it with accessories
and tools arranged to suit your personal needs. After the cabinet is full,
final fit the doors in place. Then take all the parts out of the cabinet one
last time, disassemble it and apply glue to all joints, reusing the utility
screws again to clamp it while the glue sets. Then you can fill the screw
head countersinks with wood putty and apply the finish of your choice.
This cabinet can be modified to roll on casters to be used as a low-level
work surface. You can also add modifications to hold the clutter collector
deflectors from the Shopsmith project plan, "The Shopsmith Sawdust
Collection System".
Here are more comments from Larry and others concerning the Under SS Cabinet
2. Wood Magazine Downloadable plans.
a. Drop Leaf Work Bench - Minor modifications including reducing table top size to fit my shop space. Photo to follow.
b. Swivel Top Tool Cabinet - Built very close to original specs but decided against drawer in base. Just left it open to store tools. Had to modify the Turn Tabs because I ran into a problem. Vibration from the tools mounted on the swivel top caused the tabs to rotate on their own and unlock the swivel top! Luckily I was only using the Scroll saw and not the planer mounted on the reverse. The planer is slightly heavier so the swivel top did not flip over, just began to sway back and forth! Here is how I modified the tabs to prevent them from working loose. The 3/8" dowel fits into a hole drilled in both sides of the swivel top so no matter which tools is on top the tabs are locked into place despite vibration. A mild spring under the wide screw head presses the tab down to keep the dowel in the receiving hole. A Forstner bit cut the 1/2" hole to receive the spring/screw head assembly. The screw is adjusted just tight enough to keep the tab from binding but loose enough to allow it to rotate with a little pressure. Also, I made the tabs rectangular, longer (3") and thicker (3/4") to allow them to reach the holes in the swivel top.
c. more to follow
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